Flying Solo

Last Week I spent my time in Keene Valley. In case non of you know Keene Valley, it is the best climbing spot in New York. What ever you want Keene has it. Splitter Cracks, Overhanging sport routes, Overhanging cracks, multi pitch trad, multi pitch sport, bouldering. Everything! I love Keene Valley. The Valley is where I learned to climb for the first time so it holds that special spot in my heart. I met a ton of local climbers, and even some of the pioneers of classic climbs such as Bozemans Bullet. Chapel Pond Slab is an 800 foot slab climb that is the classic of the area. One of those things you have to climb no matter why you came up to Keene. I have climbed it a few times before and last season simu-climbed it in 23 minutes base to summit. Ever since then I have had the idea brewing in my head of soloing the regular route. So when July 4th came around and all my climbing buds had to work, I had one intention before the fireworks went off, it was time to solo the slabs.

Since I took my death fall at Eagle Falls, my mental game is been the worst it has ever been in my climbing career, Phantom fears attacking me like wolves on a fresh meat. But still even with that going on I had the desire and intention to solo the slabs. I drove up, parked, grabbed my shoes and chalk bag, walked barefoot to the base and stood. I tied the Evolv Bandits to my feet and covered my hands in white courage. I took 5 deep breathes with my eyes closed and centered my self. There could be no mistakes on this climb, I could not let fear penetrate my mind, I had to shut everything off and join in the unison with the present moment. I opened my eyes and started climbing. the first 50 feet is slightly vertical crack climbing, then the next 200 feet I ran up with out using my hands. I reached the second pitch belay and chalked my hands again. I pulled over the lip of the bulge and headed for the notorious twin cracks.

I smoothly and delicately smeared my way up to the crack and right facing corner. finger jamming and stemming up the crack I gained the slabs again. I was the only one on the entire cliff face that day and it felt incredible. I climbed through the last delicate slab pitch and made my way to the ledge below bobs knob. I looked around and caught my breathe, this was the first time in a long time where my mental game has felt good. in fact it felt amazing that day, I was on point with everything and had no fears about the climbing. I was able to sit back and enjoy the climbing with out worrying about consequences. It was relieving, the most relaxing feeling ever. I started up the 30 foot dead vertical section of Bobs Knob. Gained the lip and traversed right. I was now 700 feet above the ground and from this point I could see everything Keene Valley has to offer. The pond glistened below me, as dark clouds brewed above me. I climbed the last 100 feet of slab/crack climbing and stood on top of the summit. I was at peace, totally immersed in the moment, and understood everything again. This was exactly what I needed. Total time car to car  30 minutes. 20 of which was the decent/approach

My broken barriers were beginning to be healed slowly. One must realize that fears arise from within, and if we can take a look around at our situation and decipher between real fears and false ones, then we can begin to have control over the fears. The fears I have been experiencing have been false ones, the situations I have been in have been safe and when my mind allows the negative thoughts to flow only negative consequences result. It all stems from the mind, slow down, breathe and enjoy.Evolv Geshido Lace Climbing Shoe In Size: 5